I’m not gonna lie – Old Town Quebec is included in my bucket list because I heard great many things about their food, and of course it didn’t disappoint! It is also the only fortified city north of Mexico, a UNESCO world heritage, and during the winter holidays, it looks like a Christmas postcard with its cobblestone streets, church spires and the towering castle – Chateau Frontenac by the river!
My trip was only to the Old Town and the Ice hotel outside of town so 4 days was enough for me. I chose an Airbnb within walking distance of Rue St-Jean so I can just walk around to all the places I want to check out. My choice of accommodation depends on what my mode of transportation is at that city/country.
I arrived in Quebec at night which was fine since I do not plan to go anywhere else that day anyway. Bank of America has a partner bank in Canada so all I did was use the ATM at the airport to get canadian dollars and I’m set!
Because I wanted to experience Quebec city in all its winter glory, I went right after Christmas. That meant I had to endure the freezing weather (-28F at the time of my arrival!!). If you plan to go to Quebec city in winter, please layer up!! I had 5 layers and while it was a struggle to take my gloves off every time I want to take a decent photo, IT WAS WORTH IT.
In the morning, I started my adventure at 10am (I know, its late!) by having a heavy breakfast at Café au Bonnet d’Âne along Rue St. Jean. If you are a heavy coffee drinker like me, this is the place to be. Look at how big their cups are!
After coffee, I walked up to The Plaines of Abraham. Unfortunately, it was covered in heavy snow so I wasn’t able to walk towards the view of the St. Lawrence river. A few more blocks and I get to the Observatoire de la Capitale which showcases the view of the Old Town and the town across the river. It opens at 10am and since it was particularly cold that day, there was no line at all.
(The view from the Observatory)
From the top, I can see the Chateau Frontenac, the Parliament building and the walls of the city. It wasn’t raining or snowing but it was so… gray. As soon as the sun starts to peek, I walked towards the Chateau hoping I can get a decent picture and boy did I get one!
For coffee junkies like me, don’t worry there is a Starbucks right at the hotel so you can get your hot chocolate or a cup of latte to keep you warm ;).
The Notre-Dame cathedral is only a few minutes walk from the Chateau and stands on the same location since 1647. I visited the church but decided not to pay $5 to see the crypts.
The next day, I walked along Rue St. Jean towards the chateau for my brunch at Chez Boulay. You need a reservation for this restaurant but since I am dining solo, I didnt need a reservation. I ordered the duck confit and OMG, foodgasm! This is what I came here for!!
Of course no trip to Old Town Quebec is complete without riding the Toboggan slide (build in 1884). The slide starts from the top of the Terrasse Dufferin, a terrace that wraps around the chateau and provides a good view of the town across the St. Lawrence river.
Next in my to-go list is Petit Champlain, a narrow street right below the chateau that transforms as a picturesque holiday background for pictures during the holidays. When I planned this trip, I always knew it will be during the holidays specifically so I can take these photos (second pic is Place Royal).
For dinner, I made a reservation at Aux Anciens Canadiens located at the historic Jacquet House, which dates from 1676, the oldest house in Quebec. The restaurant specializes in Québécois specialties served by waitstaff in historic garb. The food was definitely interesting but I realized I prefer the modern take and menu in Chez Boulay. You would need a reservation for this place since this is pretty popular with tourists.
The next day, I resolved to find the best coffee in town which brought me to Cantook Micro Torrefaction. The selection of beans, the simplicity of the brews, the aroma of freshly roasted coffee…. you definitely have to try this place out!
Since this was my last day, I took it easy in the walking and booked myself a tour of the city via Tours Du Vieux. The tour includes a quick historical tour of Old Town Quebec and a ride to and from Hotel de Glace – the famous ice hotel. The tour costs $55 and includes the entrance to the hotel.
At the time of my travel, the rooms weren’t opened yet (not that I would book one myself!) but the bar and the ‘chapel’ were open for tourists. The drinks were of course overpriced (around $8 – $11 per small drink) and served in this ice glass. So cool (pun intended)!
It was three full days and just enough time to explore Old Town Quebec. As a solo female traveler, I felt safe walking around the town even at night. I don’t speak french but everyone I met speaks english anyway. I used my trusty maps.me of Quebec to guide me as I walk from one attraction to the other. The food is amazing, the views transport you to the early 1700’s with all the architecture, and the people are friendly. I truly enjoyed this trip and even though I had to enter a store/restaurant every few blocks to warm myself (even with 4 layers of clothes), the walk itself was very pleasant.
I highly recommend you to visit during the holidays and if you can, time it at the winter festival (every January). You will thank me for it ;).
The Travelling Accountant 